Visiting the new Fair Isle Bird Observatory

Thinking big is what the wee close-knit community of the UK’s most remote inhabited island is all about.

Much of the beauty of the island lies is heading off on one of the many walks, admiring the lighthouses in the north and south, the mighty Sheep Rock and Ward Hill – the highest point on the island.

Sixty lucky people call the magnificent Fair Isle home and being so far away from everyone else, they have to be resilient and prepared to be a jack of all trades. The reward for their dynamic way of life is not only the stunning natural beauty of their surroundings, but a sense of togetherness that more and more people are looking for in a modern, busy world.

Steve and Ruth Holgate from Leigh near Bolton are among the new comers who are embracing this amazing corner of Scotland, just 24 miles from the Shetland Mainland. Together with friend Tracey Coffey, they jumped at the chance to help run the hospitality side of the newly built £10m Fair Isle Bird Observatory, re-opened in the summer following a huge fire which razed down the original building in 2019. And their warm Northern attitude of hard work and humour has already endeared them to the big-hearted locals who have welcomed them with real enthusiasm.

The observatory is at the centre piece of the community’s strong social scene and will be joined in October 2026 by a new £5.6m ferry to make access to the island easier and quicker. Currently visitors have to rely on an eight seater Britten-Norman Islander plane from Tingwall near Lerwick or The Good Shepherd post boat which goes from Grutness Pier and both rely on good weather to make the journey.

Here visitors and locals alike are encouraged to mix, with the impressive modular building blending easily into the north of the island and a hive of activity, with a Norwegian wedding a recent highlight.

The National Trust owned island is considered to be one of the best places in Europe to see migrating birds and the observatory’s Head of Ornithology, Alex Penn, ranger Carla Hill and assistant wardens, Luke Marriner and Tom Wright have a full on schedule keeping an eye on the abundance of birds which visit the island.

Alex is in his sixth year on the island and passionate about the research which includes measuring, weighing and ringing visiting birds which have been caught in specially constructed heligoland traps dotted around the island and carrying out a regular census of the rich bird migrants which pass through the Fair Isle.

Ranger Carla is a mind of information and enthusiasm as she tackles her first job since graduating from university. Daily walks to different parts of the island allows guests to see and learn about the incredible numbers of birds who make their home here.

Back at the observatory, there are 29 guest ensuite rooms with the comfiest beds ever, a large airy lounge and bar, a boot room and laundry facilities. Ruth, Tracey and youngster Maebh Howell keep the home from home in top notch condition and it’s a welcoming place to return to after exploring the island.

The stars of the show though are chefs Nair Pina and Chris Arnold, who produce the most incredibly tasty and varied food which is a testament to their imagination and skill considering the difficulties of getting supplies to the island.

Dishes ranging from freshly caught squid to chilli-flaked mackerel, beef and Guinness pie, carrot, ginger and coconut soup with cheesy scones and burnt peach, whipped cream and shortbread are served up, with the staple three meals included in the price and served in a communal dining room to encourage staff and guests to mingle.

Pictures of Fair Isles past take pride of place on the walls around the observatory along with a superb traditional straw back chair made by local craftsman Stewart Thomson and individual paintings which were salvaged from the fire.

A visitors room, which will also eventually house the observatory library is a hub for other Fair Isle activities, with French-born knitter Marie Bruhat running special classes to show the skills needed to create the incredibly intricate and trendy woollen gear, one of the industries which keeps the community thriving.

Away from the observatory in the north of the island, the allure is to simply walk, drink in the peace and head for the south where most of the locals live and work on their crofts or fish. It’s wonderful to see how well kept everything is, no abandoned vehicles, you often see left to rot in remote places.

The sense of pride and love for the island is clear to see from its two churches, shop and post office, community hall, wee school (with three junior and one nursery pupil) and the impressive George Waterston Memorial Centre and Museum housed in the old school house and packed with memorabilia.

Named after the co founder of the bird observatory and run by friendly historian Anne Sinclair, it’s a wealth of information of all the significant activities which have occurred on the island and gives a visitor a lovely insight into how the locals live.

Today, many have a handful of jobs from running the tiny airport to repairing broken down vehicles, alongside their daily lives of farming, fishing and crofting. With everyone mucking in, there’s plenty to do – like the annual sheep shearing.

Much of the beauty of the island lies is heading off on one of the many walks, admiring the lighthouses in the north and south, the mighty Sheep Rock which was used for summer grazing until 1977 and Ward Hill, the highest summit and scene of a plane crash on January 17th, 1941, when a German Heinkel He 111 smashed into the Vaasetter dyke. The plane, on a weather reconnaissance mission, was shot down by British Hurricanes, forcing the pilot to attempt a controlled crash-landing that killed two of the five crew members. Much of the wreckage is still on site as a memorial.

Being outdoors in such a stunning location means plenty of bird-watching too, with serious twitchers mingling with fascinated amateurs keen to enjoy the majestic puffins, slick skuas and wee willow warblers, among the plethora of fabulous fun awaiting visitors to the fantastic Fair Isle!

How do you get to Fair Isle?

Fair Isle is accessible by sea or air from both Shetland and Orkney. Visitors can use the Good Shepherd ferry (bookings via 01595 760363) or the eight-seater plane flying out of Tingwall Airport. A subsidised taxi service to Tingwall can be booked at 01595 745745 and must be booked the day before travel. For more transport information and activities on Fair Isle, please visit www.fairisle.org.uk.

Booking Information

Rates for the bird observatory are held at the 2025 price for 2026. There are discounts for spring or late autumn visits, with prices ranging from £99 per person per night which includes full board and ensuite accommodation, transport to the boat or plane and more.There is a 25% discount when staying for 7-13 nights and 33% discount for 14+ nights. Shetland and Orkney residents get a 20% discount, as well as friends and family of Fair Isle residents in July and August 2026. Visit www.fairislebirdobs.co.uk for more information.

Tourist information is available via www.visitscotland.com, www.fairisle.org.uk and www.shetland.org

By Rebecca Hay
Proud Lancastrian, Rebecca Hay, enjoys nothing more than exploring her adopted country and birthplace of her teenage children, Ruaridh and Flossie. An old-fashioned journalist, Rebecca is also a jubilant member of the British Guild of Travel Writers. Follow her adventures on X via @EmojiAdventurer.

Pin it!