Exploring Stronsay: Orkney’s Island of Bays

I head to some islands to explore their rich history, others to stroll along life-affirming beaches and savour scenery; yet more for their epic wildlife, or an impressively vibrant community. Stronsay in Orkney proves an absolute delight as I discover this beguiling quartet of attractions in one Tardis of an isle.

Aside from its lovely beaches and coastal scenery, Stronsay is indeed an inspirational island with a thriving arts and crafts scene – it is worth pinning your trip around the creative trail.

The history here stretches back for thousands of years as the island is littered with the remnants of prehistory, lumps of cairns, and wee knolls once home to Iron Age fortresses; plus, the foundations of brochs and holy wells. Stronsay – whose name is of Norse origin (the ‘star island’) – was mentioned several times in the Orkneyinga Saga.

I tap into Orkney’s history thanks to Michael McQuaid of Bayview Transport as he leads me off on a walking and minibus tour of the island. The first stop is the ferry port and main village of Whitehall. It is – to my eye – surprisingly grand. “It was once one of Britain’s biggest herring ports with so many vessels loading and unloading it’s said you could have walked across to wee Papa Stronsay without getting your feet wet.” explains Michael. Or rather ‘Mick’ – it doesn’t take long on Stronsay to dispense with formalities.

Today, Papa Stronsay is owned by an order of monks, and I can make out their impressive buildings on this wee isle, and see some of the robed monks on the ferry mingling happily with the islanders in what is always a supremely welcoming part of the world.

Mick digs me deeper into history at the Stronsay Heritage Centre, whose collage of local artefacts tells stories from its temporary home while they await new premises. He also shows me key sites on the impressive Stronsay Heritage Trail. There are 30 marked spots with information plaques dotted along the coastline-hugging village, culminating at the Heritage Centre, which fittingly sits in an old herring processing factory.

My favourite stops are the traditional workers’ toilets, built on the waterfront to be flushed by the tide, and the ‘Boatie House’, its roof fashioned by one of the upturned lifeboats from the ill-fated SS Athenia, the first British passenger ship sunk by German U-Boats during World War One.

Stronsay is also known as the ‘Island of Bays’ and it’s a fitting moniker as the land is slashed with deep bays that mean you are never more than spitting distance from the North Sea. Gorgeous stretches of postcard-pretty white sand fringe the bays of Holland, Mill and St Catherine’s. Mick gives me time to wander the sand under big skies, the cobwebs of busy modern life instantly swept aside as my shoulders drop. White sand swirls off all around as the cobalt sea stretches into the distance and high clouds scud along above. Bliss.

Stronsay’s beaches are not just for show. “We have a very active and positive wild swimming community.” Mick smiles. “They circle around the beaches, choosing a different one each day and also swim around our spectacular coastline.” We delve deeper into that coastline with a hike out to the Vat o’ Kirkbister, a hulking rock arch pummelled by the incessant rollers. Watching the surf bash against this ancient coastline is a spirit-soaring joy. My spirits rise further eking along a heavily indented coastline alive with rock stacks and wee coves, as well as an Iron Age fort.

On to the third of our quartet now – wildlife – Stronsay really comes into its own in summer. That is when the seabirds swoop in from the Atlantic to set up nests or at the other end of the natural scale harass the birds trying. There is every manner of gull, alongside shags, seriously cute puffins and those ‘pirates of the sea’ – the dreaded Orcadian ‘bonxie’ – or Great Skua in English. Even during my autumn visit there are plenty of fulmars floating around on the breeze, as well as shags and gulls.

“Stronsay is a great island for wildlife.” insists Mick and I believe him. He talks of dolphins and whales, even killer whales patrolling the local waters – “I’ve often seen killer whales around Stronsay, it’s a great place to see whales.” We don’t see any cetaceans during my visit, bar the common dolphins on the ferry coming over, but we get very close to a curious seal on the beach, who we watch having the time of his life surfing in the waves, seemingly enjoying the audience to his body surfing.

The last of our quartet is community and this is perhaps Stronsay’s strongest suit yet. While some Scottish isles struggle to make it into double figures with their populations. Stronsay has a healthy population over 350, with almost 40 kids in the school and nursery. This a far cry from the herring boom when the population (including temporary workers) soared towards 5,000, but it’s higher and more stable than that I’ve found on my travels to many of Scotland’s inhabited islands.

Mick is proud to sweep around the community side of Stronsay. We check out the Community Hall, which is often home to weddings and special events. Today, I find a jewellery making class in full swing under the expert tutelage of Stronsay creative Marion Miller. She talks to me about being inspired by Stronsay’s sea and sky. This is indeed an inspirational island with a thriving arts and crafts scene and it is worth pinning your trip around the creative trail. I hear too of the community trusts and associations which help impressively propel local life.

I get the impression there is always something happening on Stronsay. Mick shows me the compact new airport ‘terminal’, talks about all the local groups, the busy brace of shops and the community greenhouse (where we enjoy a lovely lunch made by his wife using Orcadian and homemade produce).

Just as I’m about to get on the ferry, I have a pint at the very visible community project of the Stronsay Hotel. The islanders stepped in to secure its future when it was threatened. They’re currently looking for a new landlord to take the reins if you fancy life on this most remarkable of islands. I for one do!

By Robin McKelvie
Robin McKelvie is an award-winning travel writer and broadcaster who has been published in over 200 magazines and newspapers worldwide.

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