Three Days exploring Orkney Without a Car

I wasn’t sure how easy it would be to get around Orkney without driving, but it turned out to be extremely easy, affordable, and one of the best ways to experience the islands. Over three days I used buses, ferries, and even an e-bike to reach some of Orkney’s most famous sites – from Neolithic villages to dramatic sea cliffs. Here’s how my car-free trip unfolded.

Orkney is absolutely doable without a car. Between buses, ferries, and walking, I got everywhere I wanted to go, saved money, and travelled more sustainably.

Getting to Orkney by Ferry

My adventure began in Aberdeen, boarding the 17:00 NorthLink ferry bound for Kirkwall. The crossing itself is really comfortable as there are restaurants, shops, and lounges to relax in. I had a veggie curry and noodle soup for dinner, then settled into the pod lounge with its comfy reclining seats. By 23:00 we arrived in Kirkwall, and right outside the terminal a local bus was waiting. They line up with the ferry timetable, so in just a few minutes (and for only £1.20) I was in the centre of town. From there it was a short 15-minute walk to my hostel, Kirkwall Youth Hostel, which became my base for three nights.

Day 1: Kirkwall, Skara Brae & Standing Stones

The morning started in Kirkwall, where I visited St Magnus Cathedral and the Orkney Museum – both free and full of history. After breakfast at Archive Coffee, I bought a £10 X1 day ticket which made travelling between sites really simple.

First stop: Skara Brae, the incredibly preserved 5,000-year-old village. Entry was £16 and an hour was just right, as the buses run hourly. 

From there I continued on to the Ring of Brodgar and walked 15 minutes to the Standing Stones of Stenness.

Back in Kirkwall, I had another meal at Archive Coffee (a lovely tofu salad) before heading out again. 

I took the bus towards St Margaret’s Hope and I jumped off the bus to see the Italian Chapel, a tiny but beautiful building created by Italian prisoners during WWII. A few Highland cows spotted nearby were a bonus! 

Dinner was at Helgi’s by the harbour where I had some soup and a cous cous salad with vegan feta before calling it an early night.

Day 2: The Old Man of Hoy

Day two was all about Orkney’s most iconic sea stack. I took the 30 minute bus to Stromness and then the 25-minute ferry over to Hoy which cost  £6.70 return. A community minibus met us at the pier and dropped me at Rackwick Bay, arranging to collect me later.

From there it’s an hour’s walk to the Old Man of Hoy, a 137-metre stack rising sheer from the sea. The cliffs, the views, and the sea birds made it unforgettable. 

On the way back, I stopped at Beneth’ill Café for lentil soup and a falafel panini before catching the ferry and bus back to Kirkwall.

Day 3: Rousay – The “Egypt of the North”

On my last day I headed to Rousay, famous for its Neolithic sites. I took the number 6 bus to Tingwall ferry terminal, stopping by Betty’s Reading Room, a beautiful reading room open to all, right next door.

The ferry crossing takes 25 minutes and costs £6.70 return.

At the Rousay Heritage Centre I saw a poster about bike hire, rang the number, and within 10 minutes Carol arrived with an e-bike (£20 for the day). With it, I easily toured the island’s cairns: Taversoe Tuick (a rare two-storey tomb), Blackhammer Cairn, and the impressive Midhowe Cairn, nicknamed a “Stone Age cathedral.”

Later, I cycled to Saviskaill Bay where you can see seals sometimes. Before leaving, I found Shore T’s – a charming honesty café by the terminal where you make your own tea or coffee and pop money in a box.

Heading Back to Aberdeen

That evening I collected my bag and boarded the 23:00 ferry back to Aberdeen. This time I had a cabin, which meant a proper night’s sleep before our 7:00 arrival. Breakfast was served onboard, with vegan options at the cooked breakfast. I stepped off the ship, rested and already plotting a return.

Final Thoughts

Orkney is absolutely doable without a car. Between buses, ferries, and walking, I got everywhere I wanted to go, saved money, and travelled more sustainably. Orkney is also incredibly safe for solo travellers, if you’re looking for an affordable, car-free adventure in Scotland, Orkney is the perfect place.

By Marisa Vogiatzi
Marisa Vogiatzi is a travel content creator who shares guides about travelling Scotland and beyond by public transport. She’s passionate about solo travel, sustainable tourism, the outdoors and uncovering hidden gems.

Pin it!