5 peaceful places in Shetland

Shetland is known for its beautiful landscapes and dramatic coastlines. I find much of my inspiration for writing while exploring these places. One of my favourite things to do is to pack a flask of coffee and a notebook and find somewhere peaceful to write, where I can be immersed in the sights and sounds of nature. Here are my top 5……

I have heard the seals sing. It is a strange noise, uncanny almost, that seems to flow between sea and sky. It is easy to understand this could have inspired island folk tales of seals transforming into humans.

Sanik Beach Burra

Known as the selkie beach, Sanik is a small rocky beach in West Burra. It is a favourite place for seals to come ashore to rest and warm up in the sun.

It is very important to never approach the seals or make any sudden movements to avoid frightening them. But if you are respectful and keep your distance they are quite happy to share the beach with you.

I always walk to some rocks to the left of the area the seals choose. Then, from a safe distance I can watch them. Using binoculars I have been able to observe many different behaviours: fights between males for territory, a mum nursing her pup, and on some magical occasions, I have heard the seals sing. It is a strange noise, uncanny almost, that seems to flow between sea and sky. It is easy to understand this could have inspired island folk tales of seals transforming into humans. Often when I sit writing here, the seals in the water will approach, swimming closer and closer, seeming very curious about what I am doing.

Burn of Lunklet

Although there are many places in where you can experience the soothing sounds of the sea, we have far fewer rivers. This is what makes the burn of Lunklet so special. It is one of only a few waterfalls in Shetland. A rugged but generally well maintained path runs alongside the burn making it a relatively accessible place to explore. By the steepest parts of the waterfall there is a deep pool with some large smooth rocks at its edge. These are a perfect place to sit and hear the sounds of the river all around and watch the ever changing flows and eddies in the water.

The views from this place are beautiful, especially in summer when the hills are filled with purple heather and the song of skylark fills the skies. The surrounding area is known locally as ‘the alps’. Although the hills aren’t nearly as high as their namesake, this is a wild and rugged landscape, where there is a true sense of peace.

Tresta Beach, Fetlar

Each of Shetland’s islands are distinct and all have many wonderful landscapes to explore but Fetlar is my first choice when I am looking for a peaceful place. It is a relatively large island, almost 16 square miles and with only around sixty residents, it has many quiet corners. For me, the beach at Tresta has an amazing sense of tranquillity. A golden sand beach stretches into the distance, surrounded by fields of wildflowers.  Looking inland, a small church stands beside a loch called Papil water.

This place name, which translates from Old Norse to ‘place of priests’ suggests a long history as a sacred site and it is thought a much older chapel was once located here.  Standing between loch, sea and hill, there is a real sense of peace here.

Lomb Hoga, the hill directly behind the beach, is a landscape familiar to me long before I ever visited Shetland. Some of the most iconic Shetland pony photographs were taken here. This is where much of the islands peat is located and so crofters cut and dried their peat in these hills. Strong, sure footed Shetland ponies were used to carry this peat in straw baskets on their sides called kishies. Sitting here quietly, as the sun sets, you can feel the multiple layers of history in this landscape.

Kergord Woods

Although Shetland is often thought of as a treeless place, we do have some places where you experience the particular peace that you can only find in forests. Kergord is probably our most impressive area of woodland. The first trees were planted at the start of the 20^th century with additional planting taking place in later years. Although this is one of the best places to take the bairns on noisy adventures to climb trees and build forts, it is also somewhere I love to sit alone and soak up the atmosphere.

It is special in any season. In spring, when the islands are still regularly battered by storms, the shelter provided by these trees becomes a haven for the first wildflowers. Carpets of lesser celandine bloom amongst the bright green leaves of wild garlic.

In autumn shifting colours of leaves form an ever changing backdrop. If you sit a while, you will often see unusual birds that have stopped to rest and refuel during their long migrations. But perhaps most importantly for those wanting to sit outside for a while, the trees provide wonderful shelter from our winter winds.

Scalloway Hill

Just behind the Scalloway college campus, there is a lovely area to explore. At the start of the walk a smooth path travels between hill and sea. Looking out over the water, offers beautiful view over to the islands of Burra and Trondra. To the right is wild, exposed hill, whose colours and patterns change with the season, from the vibrant purple of summer to the muted brown and gold of winter. What I love about this walk is that it is perfect for long rambles but also an incredible place for shorter walks. There are several benches close to the start of the walk, each with stunning views. The hill is home to sheep and Shetland ponies and it is incredibly relaxing to sit and watch them go about their lives.

I love to see the horses in all seasons. In winter, when their thick coats protect them from the elements and they stand stoic against the storms, in the summer when their smooth colours shine against a background of wildflowers. This is a popular walking route for visitors and local folk alike, so the ponies are used to people and if you are still they might approach you.

By Catherine Munro
Catherine Munro is an author and anthropologist living in Shetland. Her work focuses on nature and human-animal relationships in the islands. She loves exploring Shetland with her children and sharing these experiences through her writing.

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