8 of Orkney’s best hikes

In truth I’m never happier than when going for a walk in Orkney – there’s something quite exciting about discovering a new trail. I love hiking along in the fresh air, both alone and with good friends, away from the cares of the world.

Visiting some of Orkney’s outer islands is a must – each has a unique story to tell. Some of these islands are fantastic for hiking around in one day – we recommend Flotta, Egilsay, Wyre, Eday or Graemsay in particular.

Thanks to the midsummer sun, Orkney has long days which offer endless chances to explore at your own pace. It’s also never too hot to walk in Orkney – the wind is usually a companion no matter the season – and it’s relaxing – the only sounds you’ll hear are the boom and wash of the sea and bright bird calls in the air.

I’ve compiled a short list of my favourite walks below – and hope you’ll join me as I lace up my hiking boots, and fill a rucksack with a camera, some snacks, and a couple of layers (at least one of them waterproof!)

1. The hills of North Hoy

Of all Orkney’s islands, Hoy is the most mountainous, and easy to reach. For this hike we’d recommend sailing on the foot passenger ferry from Stromness, which takes 30 minutes to arrive in Moaness, under the shadow of the massive Ward Hill.

Catch the bus or hike to Rackwick and take a moment to savour this lovely green valley which has a stunning sandy beach embedded with large pink sea boulders. The beach is enclosed by two steep hillsides, one of which leads to the Old Man of Hoy.

Follow the path up this hillside, past a scattering of crofts, and watch your step – there are a lot of loose stones on the way to the Old Man! Arriving at the famous sea stack, you’ll see just how impressive it is up close – but you’ll also be quite taken with the surrounding red cliffs – which rise to St John’s Head. At 352m, this is one of the tallest vertical sea cliffs in the UK.

After St John’s Head, leave the cliffs behind and head upwards to the peak of the Culags – the sister slope (435m high) to Ward Hill. Beware though – Bonxies (Great skua) patrol the skies above the rough heather slopes, and these fearsome birds will divebomb you if you venture too close to their nests. Our advice is to hold your arm above your head. If bonxies think you are taller, they won’t swoop so low! Once you reach the summit of the Culags, descend carefully to the road below, onto the ferry, and home.

2. The Swartland Drover’s Road, West Mainland

One of the gentlest walks on this list, the Swartland Drover’s Road is a hidden path in the West Mainland, which begins near the Merkister Hotel and leads past the village of Dounby through some of Orkney’s bonniest farm country. You’ll find a signpost opposite a small parking area, and the path itself is soft and grassy and lined with tiny white wildflowers, like stars in the night sky.

The path was previously used to take cattle (or kye as they are known in Orkney) to market, and passes the Loch of Harray and the former Decca Station, before crossing the rushing clear water of a burn and then a road (the B9057). As the path nears Swartland you may spot ruined crofts, an old church and Skeabrae, a wartime airfield, which lies to the left. The Swartland Drover’s Road is one of Orkney’s loveliest secrets.

If you’re looking for more fine walks nearby, we’d heartily recommend discovering the Knowes of Trotty!

3. Mull Head and the Gloup, Deerness

A very fine hike on Orkney’s east coast in Deerness – this begins at the Gloup, a collapsed sea cave. This chasm is open to the elements, and echoes with the sound of the sea spilling inside. The Gloup can be seen from above, from a viewing platform that is safely fenced off.

From there, hike onwards to the cliffs, where you’ll have a fine view of the island of Copinsay, and continue north to the Brough of Deerness. This is a low and wide grassy seastack, which can be climbed via rock-cut steps and a chain handrail fixed into the rock wall. There are the remains of a Norse chapel to visit at the top.

After the Brough of Deerness you can continue along the coast (across boardwalks some of the way) to Mull Head, which is home to a congregation of seabirds every summer. A little further on, you’ll arrive at a tall stone monument which resembles a chess piece – the Covenanter’s Memorial. In 1679, a ship carrying prisoners, The Crown of London, which was wrecked here. Many of the prisoners, called Covenanters, were trapped below deck, and did not survive.

Following the grassy path inland, you’ll soon arrive back at the Gloup, to complete this rewarding circular walk!

4. A clockwise walk around Graemsay

Visiting some of Orkney’s outer islands is a must – each has a unique story to tell. Some of these islands are fantastic for hiking around in one day – we recommend Flotta, Egilsay, Wyre and Eday in particular.

I have a soft spot however for Graemsay. This is a small green farming island between Stromness and Hoy, and there’s lots to see – just hop on the ferry to Moaness from Stromness – it stops in Graemsay often. After your arrival at the pier, follow the signposted coastal path clockwise, and you’ll cross attractive beaches, anger quite a few birds, and discover a beautiful old church – its roof open to the stars.

During our visit, we were particularly taken with Hoy Low lighthouse, and the wartime gun emplacements next to it, and also with Sandside beach, where we were followed by seals and felt the crunch of white maerl – a type of coral – under our hiking boots. As we reached the ferry again, we did so under the towering shadow of Hoy High Lighthouse.

One of the things that we didn’t realise about Graemsay until we visited was how fast the currents of Hoy Sound are around it – the island feels like a stepping stone in a fast- flowing river. Most days you will have the island to yourself, but the lack of footfall also means that the coastal path can be quite rough and overgrown in places.

5. Muddisdale to Wideford Hill

This particular walk will guide you from the centre of Kirkwall to the top of Wideford Hill for a panoramic view of Orkney. Beginning at the Pickaquoy leisure centre, hike up Muddisdale road and, just past a football pitch, take the signposted path which leads to Sunnybank road. This will take you through some new woodland, and past a corner of Kirkwall Golf Course.

Upon reaching Sunnybank road turn left and walk for about 100m until you see the track leading uphill to Wideford’s brown summit, which covered by tall telecommunication masts, like candles on a birthday cake. There’s a road to the top of Wideford and you’ll meet it eventually – follow it to the top for a stunning view of Kirkwall, mainland Orkney, and out in the gleaming sea, many of Orkney’s outer isles!

You can also add an extra stop to this walk, by following a slow spiral path downwards to the other side of the hill. Eventually you will reach Wideford Cairn – a Neolithic tomb which can be accessed by descending a ladder inside.

6. Yesnaby to Skara Brae

One of our favourite walks, this coastal walk along the West Mainland coast leads from Yesnaby to the Bay of Skaill (home to the Neolithic village of Skara Brae). Starting at the Yesnaby car park, head north. You’ll spot a style to clamber over a wired fence (no need to worry about snagging your clothes!) and after leaving Yesnaby behind, the trek leads down a slope to a small cove with a sea stack and the Broch of Burwick, a circular Iron Age building.

The Broch of Burwick is not quite as grand as other brochs you’ll see but it’s very dramatic – situated precariously close to the cliff edge. Further along the coast you’ll find a deep ravine which cuts sharply inland, called Ramna Geo, and then trek uphill to the rocky summit at Row Head.

We love the view from Row Head, as it shows the coast all the way to Marwick Head in the north and the Old Man of Hoy in the south. Looking down on the Bay of Skaill, you’ll also see how deeply the North Atlantic waves have eaten into the West Mainland coast, like a bite into an apple.

As your hike nears its end, you’ll pass the Hole o’Rowe – a cliff with a hole though it. On a winter’s day, when watching waves pound the coast, you’ll spot the cold sea exploding through the Hole o’Rowe! Finally, the Bay of Skaill is a lovely sandy beach and walking along it is a peaceful end to a dramatic coastal walk.

7. Coastal Walk from Burwick, South Ronaldsay

There are many pleasant coastal walks in South Ronaldsay, and we’d also recommend a walk at Windwick Bay and at Hoxa Head. This hike begins at Burwick and takes in some lesser-known areas of Orkney, with wonderful views of the south isles. It’s easy to imagine wartime Orkney, and the ships that must have steamed into Scapa Flow along this route.

There’s plenty of space to park your car at Burwick, and the coast path is easy to find, uphill past two wind turbines until you reach The Castle of Burwick – a sliver of land only just attached to the rest of the coast! Take care along the rest of the cliff edge, and you’ll see a host of delicate wildflowers, and nesting birds.

Geologists will enjoy coastal features such as seastacks, geos, and spotting the folding of Orkney’s Old Red Sandstone in the cliffs also. You’ll pass Barswick, Hoston Head and Weems Castle (possibly the remains of an Iron Age broch) before arriving at the beach of Sandwick. The walk is 5 miles long and the perfect adventure for a sunny day!

8. Stromness West Shore walk

If you have some time to spare in Stromness then we’d highly recommend this walk, which begins at Stromness’s south end, near the Point of Ness campsite. The west shore walk follows a coastal road, which has a splendid view of the hills of Hoy and Graemsay throughout, and if you’re lucky, MV Hamnavoe may glide by on one of her sailings between Stromness and Scrabster.

Along the road you’ll pass Stromness Golf Course, the old lifeboat shed, watch towers and searchlight emplacements from the war, and then, on a slope above, Ness Battery. The wartime guns at Ness Battery were so powerful, they could have shot the Old Man of Hoy, 7 miles away!

On an evening, you may hear the haunting calls of seals along the west shore, and though the road peters out into a rougher track, it continues along to the Stromness kirkyard, Warebeth beach, and eventually, the Black Craig. We’d recommend turning inland along the Netherton road though, which meanders back into Stromness. Take the path to the Citadel Viewpoint, which was once the site of a wartime anti-aircraft gun, for a fantastic view of the town.

The west shore walk is great to undertake by yourself, but we think you should invite some of your favourite people in the world to join you on this lovely Orkney walk!

By Magnus Dixon
Orkney and Shetland enthusiast, family man, loves walks, likes animals, terrible at sports, dire taste in music, adores audiobooks and films, eats a little too much for his own good.

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